Back of the Bike

Journey matters: Viewing life from the back of a motorcycle

Gaudi's Unfinished Cathedral

DSC03708 Antoni Gaudi (1852 – 1926) was a brilliant architect whose unusual works helped establish Barcelona as the center of the Modernista architectural movement. Gaudi’s works even today are famous worldwide. But his dreams were only partly realized. Although he designed many fantastic buildings in this city, he died before he completed his most famous project, La Sagrada Familia, because he was hit by a tram. (I just can’t get over how odd that seems.)

Before we left on this trip, we spent a wonderful evening with our good friend Dave who lived in Spain for two years. He told us about many things to see, but he was emphatic that we see some of Gaudi’s works, particularly the unfinished La Sagrada Familia, “holy family” cathedral. So today was set aside to do just that.

Indeed it was obvious after seeing these amazing buildings why Gaudi put Barcelona on the architectural world map. We saw the apartment building La Pedrera, “stone quarry” in Spanish. Also Casa Batllo, and DSC03692 finally La Sagrada Familia, which was spectacular. Here Gaudi put many of the techniques he had learned throughout his life into practice. Influenced greatly by nature, Gaudi incorporates rather fantastic floral and plant life imagery, mosaics and brightly colored tiles, and flowing lines into all his designs.

La Sagrada Familia brings it all together in an unforgettable way. After touring the building, I walked away impressed by many things: -- it is nearly 56 stories tall (558 feet); -- it features the entire passion of Christ in sculpture throughout the building; -- there is a mysterious cryptogram on an outside wall; -- the lineage of Christ is carved in wood on several of the main entry doors; -- Gaudi spent the last 43 years of his life working on the building; and -- private funding allows the work to continue today. It is hoped the cathedral will be completed by 2026 in time for the 100-year anniversary of Gaudi’s death.

There are several good websites to visit to learn more about Gaudi and his works.

La Sagrada Familia:

  • http://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.com/en/gaudi/sagrada-familia.html
  • http://www.sagradafamilia.cat/docs_instit/images.htm

This site features facts about the man and photos of his projects:

  • http://www.gaudiclub.com/ingles/i_vida/i_menu.asp

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City of Dreams

DSC03540How is it I have never dreamed of Barcelona?  It is precisely the kind of city dreams are made of.  This spicy Spanish town is filled with sights, sounds and smells that intoxicate the senses.  From musicians to markets, cathedrals to coffee, Barcelona is a vibrant, undulating place that you just simply give into – and enjoy every minute of it.

We have been here a mere 12 hours, landing at the city’s very contemporary airport after an all-night trans-Atlantic flight from New York City.  Jet lag doesn’t stand a chance here, as our early afternoon stroll turned into an all out walkathon through some of the most intriguing parts of the inner city.

Our nesting spot is Hotel Regina, located just off Placa de Catalunya, a central plaza in the heart of the city.  From here, it is an easy stroll to reach La Rambla, a pedestrian street that runs east to the waterfront.  It is named after a riverbed that ran through the city in the 14th century – I can picture a rambling waterway making its way to the mouth of the Mediterranean Sea.  Easy to fast-forward seven centuries and see the similarities.  Crowds of people flow easily up to and then around florists stands, street vendors and fountains, slowing here and there to take a side trip through an alley, but always joining the larger throng.

We make two side trips: one to the Mercat de la Boqueria, an open-air market; and one to the Barri Gotic, the Gothic Quarter, an ancient part of the city filled with palaces, convents and cathedrals.


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The Mercat is as much a treat for the eyes as it is for the palate.  We wandered around this emporium pretty much with our jaws slack, thinking how much the Food Network would have loved to tag along.  Every stall, whether it was seafood, chocolate or produce, was artfully arranged and dazzlingly displayed.  So many exotic things -- I wasn’t sure what everything was.  We jumped right out there and bought an unusual pink fruit that tasted much like a kiwi.  Real dare-devils, those Mitchells.  Somehow we managed to resist the temptation to buy fresh eel, although the prawns didn’t look so bad.  But since we were saving our appetites for dinner in the Barri Gotic, I made a note of some of the nuts and chocolate stands I might stop back by tomorrow. 

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From the Mercat, we headed toward the Barri Gotic.  Diving off the main pedestrian walkway, we found ourselves winding our way through narrow streets with charming Spanish names such as Quintana, Portal de l’Angel, and Duc de Victoria.  Nothing is marked very well, so a compass head like me had to really work at getting and keeping my bearings.  Raye just followed along whenever I turned a corner, pretty much trusting I was going to get us “there” wherever there was.


DSC03599There was La Catedral, the magnificent cathedral in the heart of the quarter.  Even though it is under an intense renovation, the immense building did not disappoint.  Built in 1358, the church holds dozens of shrines and places of worship.  I sat for a while in a quiet and secluded prayer room, thinking of how blessed we are and how grateful we have been lately for the health of our family and friends closest to us.  Life is a gift, lest we forget. 

As was everyone else, I was quite taken with the elaborate architecture, stained glass and spires.  Such environments tend to inspire somber spiritual thoughts, no doubt.  But we enjoyed laughing at a flock of white geese who appear to live in the lap of luxury next to a courtyard fountain located just outside the main hall of worship.  People fed them freely and they had their own little house next to the water.  Like living in a sacred spa, I guess.

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Our hunger finally got the best of us, and we were lucky enough to get an outdoor table at Taller de Tapas, a small restaurant that specializes in, well, tapas.  This is of course the famous Spanish style of eating appetizer-sized portions of a variety of foods, a little like indulging in dim sum but with a splash of paprika and anchovies to spice things up.

We ordered fried calamari, sliced artichokes, tomato and olive marinated salad, beef filet with chiles, and a chorizo omlette.  Top it off with an espresso and you have the near perfect early-evening meal.    Fortunately, I found a gourmet chocolate shop on the stroll back, and we enjoyed dark chocolate with pistachios and white chocolate with hazelnuts.  Bonus: I found some chocolate-covered ginger for my mom, which I intend to bring home as a small surprise.  She loves this rather unique sweet treat, and I hope she enjoys this sampling.

DSC03626Once we made it back to the hotel, Raye just crashed and seems to be enjoying the comforts of our small but well appointed room.  Of course my heart skips a beat when I find wi-fi anywhere, and I immediately got connected so I could download photos and post to the blog.  So many images and thoughts are swirling in my head.  I learned on our last European motorcycle trip two years ago that there is too much stimuli to keep inside, and it’s much better to let it all flow out of my fingers and into the keyboard.  Otherwise sleep is slow in coming.


Speaking of sleep, I think I’ll succumb.  The city of dreams awaits.

 

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Packing

Spent the evening packing for our trip.  10 days through the Pyreenes Mountains in northern Spain and southern France. Should be magnificent, as our trip two years ago through the Alps certainly was.  Most important items to take: laptop, batteries, cords, I-pod, camera. 

I will miss the kids the most.  They are 15 (almost) and 11, and we are right there with them in virtually all they are doing.  I wouldn't miss any of it -- great time of life.  My daughter tonight said "Who will I talk to while you're gone?"  Three of the four grandparents will be waiting on them hand and foot, but nontheless it touched my heart.  We agreed: no new boyfriends, no great sleep-overs with friends or exciting developments of any kind -- I don't want to miss a thing!  Basically, don't live while I'm gone. 

How in the world am I going to handle empty nest?...

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Cheater

Winter overstayed its welcome this year, and one of the biggest prices we’ve paid is not riding in months. Well, at least I haven’t ridden. Can’t say the same for my husband, who is a bona fide cheater.

Since at least November, when we stole our last late autumn tour through the crisp Ozark countryside, I’ve walked passed, around and beside my beautiful red bike leaning on its stand in our garage. Riding weather’s just around the corner, I’ve told myself on numerous occasions. Not really, but my optimistic tendencies kept me going through the depressing gray weeks of January and February particularly. At one point, Raye and I got so down about the inhospitable conditions we spent a week or two planning and eventually booking our next big European riding trip this fall – 10 days touring the Pyrenees in Southern France and the coast of Spain.

Within the past few weeks, however, the weather has started warming up, I am sure the bulbs in our front yard will eventually find a way to bloom, and I find myself thinking about riding nearly every day. I called home from the office late one afternoon this week and asked my son where his dad was – "he’s on motorcycle rides" he told me. Rides? Yes, he’s taking out one bike after another, returning long enough to hop another one of his bikes and disappear again. This is a man who believes you can’t have enough bikes – some of which are theoretically in our garage only because they are beautiful to look at.

Cheater, I told my husband when I got home. What was he doing sneaking out for "rides" when I was glued to a keyboard with a cell phone sticking out of one ear? Just making sure everything was in good working order, came the reply. Cheater, I repeated, acting a little ruffled. But he wasn’t fooled. He knew I’d be interested in the details, so he pressed on, telling me how each bike performed, how the roads felt, how long the afternoon light had held up.

I got up this morning and saw daffodils blooming everywhere in our front yard. Riding weather has arrived, indeed. Good bye winter. Hello warm wind, soft leather, endless road.

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First ride

My_bike_013Or perhaps I should title this post, Labor Day Redux.  Last Labor Day, we had a grand ride through Newton County, Arkansas (see previous post).  Back then, I wouldn't have imagined the same time next year not only would we have a grand ride again, but this time I would be caption of my own ship.  This was my first ride on my new bike, a Kawasaki Ninja 250.

My inaugural trip was a shorter loop than last year, but we still rode for a few hours. Heading out at early morning, I rode with my husband in front and my father-in-law in back.  My son rode on the back of the bike (my normal spot) of my husband's bike.  For a beginner, having a lead and a back bike was most comfortable for me. 

First we rode east out of Fayetteville on Highway 45 and north nearly to Eureka Springs, then south through Withrow Springs State Park, on to Huntsville, where we ate breakfast at Granny's.  Then back west again toward Fayetteville through Elkins.  Each time we stopped for a breather, I got encouraging critiques from my felllow riders.  And when putting some of their suggestions into place, I felt a little more confident and a little more comfortable.

Best parts of the ride: smelling the smoky breakfast campfires burning in Withrow Springs, biscuits and gravy at Granny's, maneuvering corners, accelerating, time with my family.

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My bike -- a Kawasaki Ninja 250

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Tonight we brought home a new addition to our family: a 2007 red Kawasaki Ninja 250. 

http://www.kawasaki.com/Products/Detail.aspx?id=200

It’s my bike.  I walked around it in the garage several times, kneeled down next to it appreciating all the chrome, curves and shine of the new purchase.  I straddled the seat and grabbed the handlebars.  A perfect fit in every way.  It was really mine. 

My_bike_023_2 

“Think it likes me?” I said out loud.  This rhetorical question would only mean something to me who was always convinced that my husband’s Porsche 928 had it in for me.  Every time I turned that car on, the alarm went off.  Kinda ruined that sexy feeling you would have expected from sitting in such a beautiful and powerful machine.


My husband has already tried out our new bike.  It’s fast, he says, and it handles well.  I can tell he’s pleased with himself for having found it and brought it home.  The purchase is a result of our search for a motorcycle for me. 


Since I took the Motorcycle Safety Course a few weeks ago, we had both decided I liked riding to get my own ride.  We considered many different makes and models and settled on the Kawasaki as a perfect starter bike.  One salesman warns us I’ll probably get tired of it pretty quickly, but he will be happy to sell us what I have my eye on for a second bike: a red, Yamaha FZ6.  Quite a bit more powerful bike and I am determined to genuinely graduate up to it at some point.


We decide I will take it out on my own in the morning.  Sure enough, early Sunday just after coffee but before reading the paper and getting ready for church, we head for the garage.  I review in my mind all the basics – how to turn it on, clutch, hand brake, foot brake, neutral, kill switch.  “Just like riding a bike,” my husband says confidently to me and patting me on the bike.  He knows I am a little nervous to ride again.  It’s been since my safety course, and I am afraid I’ll forget something important.  Worse yet, run off the road, miss a turn or run into something.  “It’ll all come back to you.”  I hope.


Taking off out of our driveway was a little jerky as I try to find the friction zone, where the clutch engages the rear wheel to power the bike forward.  I remember how hard it was to learn how to get off a ski lift without falling down – and taking others with you in the process.  I think learning to take off on your motorcycle without jerking or killing the motor is sort of the same.  You have to expect to have at least one embarrassing moment.


But very quickly, it gets better.  I shift into second, third, and increase my speed to the fastest I’ve ever gone – upwards of 30 mph – since our safety course top speed was only about 15 mph.  It’s easy, and fun.  Yet I slow down considerably when I approach my first right turn.   A near miss, I have to grab the hand brake and cut my speed to keep from heading into a neighbor’s yard.  My confidence a little shaken, I drift toward the end of a cul de sac, but I tell myself it was only a little rusty.  I can do better.  So I make the turn around and head back, this time handling both left and right hand curves with no trouble in several places.


As I glide back into the driveway, I agree, it is coming back.  In fact, I spend several minutes brushing up on my slow riding skills in our drive, which was my favorite part of the safety riding course.  My husband walks out of the garage to watch me turn figure eights and then pull the bike back into its spot beside our others – all without putting my foot down.  He has a big grin on his face.  She likes it, I know he is thinking. 

Yes, she does.

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Bike snob -- shopping for my first motorcycle

My husband can hardly wait for the debrief when I walk in the door.  Even though he got to see some of our riding test, he wants more details – how did it all go, what did I learn, did I like it?  Funny how when I want the same level of detail from him in conversation I usually get some sort of one-word answer: good, fine, great, super.  I am exhausted, so my attempt at the same kind of reply is met with further prodding.  I remind myself this is what he loves, and the class was a gift.  Part of the satisfaction for him is in knowing what I think about motorcycling now.


Over the next several hours, I slowly begin recounting everything I can remember – stories from Mike, challenges of the range, what was hard, what was easy.  He asks me: “What was the biggest take-away?”  Easy.  I have a greater appreciation for the power of the machine.  Part of that new knowledge produces apprehension I had not anticipated – like imagining everything that could go wrong while riding and many of those things being accidents I did not cause.  Just stupid things other drivers – especially cars – will do around bikes.  Part of it is the desire I now have to see just what that power can do.  What would it feel like to ride faster than the 15 mph we did on the practice course?  How consumed will my mind be while making the many decisions necessary to control the bike?  Will I like that mental challenge, or will I prefer the mental escape of riding on the back of the bike instead?


On Saturday night, I am not sure of these answers.  But after a 12-hour recovery sleep, I wake up Sunday to find myself surfing the Internet comparing different starter bikes.  After church, we compile a list of my best options based on my husband’s nearly encyclopedic knowledge of the many makes and models of bikes.  We consider key criteria such as seat height, weight, handlebar and foot peg position – not to mention looks. 


While I am sure I need to test ride the short list, I am drawn to one or two that seem perfect for me:


a Ducati Monster 695
or a Moto Guzzi Breva 750

Color preference: red.  Both bikes come in right around 400 pounds or a little less and have a fairly low seat – about 30 – 31 inches.  I am really tall, so this doesn’t seem like it should be a huge factor for me, but in straddling the different bikes my husband has at home now, each is tall enough to make me question my ability to keep them from tumbling over if I am not careful.  The Honda Rebel I rode as my loaner bike was very low, probably ideal for new learners and not a bad starter bike for the average height person.


But I admit I love the signature trellis frame of the Monster.  “Bike snob,” my husband says with a grin when I keep coming back to the Ducati website.  I find this a bit ironic since his bike of choice is either a BMW or a Ducati – we have four bikes in the garage now in spite of the fact I have told him for years that as far as I knew you can only ride one at a time.  Still, this is better than many other things he could collect, so I have never complained about his obsession with motorcycles.  Especially not since I hopped on last year, and have not been able to get enough of riding since.

My husband also digs out a book he read many years ago called “The Perfect Vehicle,” by Melissa Holbrook Pierson.


The author writes about the mysterious attraction of the motorcycle, its history, the type of people who ride, why they love it and her own experiences with the machine.  “You gotta read this,” he says.  “You write like her.” 


I also recall the many bike movies we have enjoyed together and that I always found fascinating even before we rode together.  “On Any Sunday,” “The Fastest Indian,” and the iconic “Easy Rider.”  Maybe bikes were meant to be a bigger part of my life than just riding on the back, yet even after the course, I don’t feel like I’ve mastered it all yet.  But then again I can’t remember any sport I’ve felt entirely comfortable with the first time through.  The challenge comes in perfecting your skill over time; otherwise it wouldn’t be very interesting.


We decide the next step, after getting my motorcycle license, is for me to get some road practice on more isolated streets near our home out on the edge of town.  And maybe a shopping trip is in order.


“You’ll get the hang of it,” my husband says with complete confidence.  “Like I’ve always told you, you were meant to ride.”   

I guess we’ll see.

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Lady Riders -- women who ride motorcycles

As the morning wears on, we encourage one another through the increasingly difficult assignments, and then unfortunately find ourselves saying good-bye to yet another classmate who’s having difficulty keeping up with things due to a nagging back injury.  We’re now down to five men and five women.  We break for lunch as some rain clouds begin to threaten and mercifully hide the summer sun for a while.  The ladies head off for a bite to eat, where I learn more about their riding interests and experiences.  We talk about the camaraderie of motorcycling and how you feel a part of a larger club once you take up the sport regardless of what you do or where you’re from. 

Motorcycle_safety_course_008 Tresa, the most capable rider in the bunch, tells me about a women’s group called the Lady Riders of Northwest Arkansas.  The group meets every fourth Saturday at the Sunset Grill in Springdale “ready to ride at 9 a.m., come for breakfast if you like at 8.”  Tresa says the group attracts women of all ages from all walks of life and who ride all kinds of bikes.  “We’re ‘non-denominational,’” she says with a smile.  All bikes are welcome.  While the group has fluctuated in size through the years, the goal is to encourage women to ride and give them practice riding with others on trips that are not too difficult but offer some skill challenge.  Some go on to ride with the men in their lives such as husbands or boyfriends, while others continue to come every month or drop in frequently to enjoy the companionship of other women riders.

I got to wondering how many other women in the U.S. were spending their Saturday with a bike.  As it turns out, probably quite a few.  According to the Motorcycle Industry Council, women are the fastest growing segment of motorcycle riders, and one in 10 bikes sold is bought by a woman.  I ran across a great website devoted to women riders: www.womenridersnow.com, which was packed with information, resources, products and stories about women riders. Coincidentally, I also just found out July is Women’s Motorcycle Month.

We talk about the skills of our entire class and decide everyone is doing pretty well considering the amount of learning being thrown at us, and in fact the women are holding their own compared with the men.  We agree there doesn’t seem to be a gender factor in the learning process.  If anything, this is more a thinking person’s sport than anything else given the complexity of the techniques, the physics involved and the constant decision-making required by the driver.  Mike and Jim both told us the night before “Motorcycling is a skill of the mind and the eye.”  I look forward to the time when I feel riding is more of an art and less of a science, when my skill becomes more instinctual and less remedial.  “Muscle memory is critical to riding success,” Mike tells us more than once.  He encourages us to practice, practice, practice so that over time your reflexes take over many of the things you must do on a regular basis to ride safely.  I suppose this is like learning to drive a car but with less protection and more to lose from a mistake.

We spend the better part of the afternoon continuing to tackle more exercises including sudden stops in a curve, lane changing, swerving to avoid obstacles and maneuvering tight corners.  By this point, I have to admit I am starting to get a little tired and a bit overwhelmed by the constantly changing combination of old skills and addition of new skills.  I maintain my focus by talking with fellow riders about what we’ve just learned and discussing the finer points of each exercise.  Mike stops to tell us how well everyone is doing, and we are hopeful that the testing is coming to an end and all will pass the course. 

In fact, we do.  Shortly thereafter, Mike and Trey prepare and hand out our official Rider Course Motorcycle_safety_course_024wallet cards along with some safety literature, and we have a brief graduation ceremony next to our bikes.  They remind us to ride safely, to encourage others to take the class and above all to use what we have learned.  I take a group shot of the happy graduates and everyone disperses, hopefully a little wiser and ready for the road.

I am pleased with the parting words from my fellow female riders as they head out: “Come ride with us sometime.”  I mentally calculate that the next time the Lady Riders of Northwest Arkansas will meet is just a few weeks away.

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Trying to feel at home on the range -- the driving portion of the Motorcycle Safety Course

Twelve of the 14 students from last night arrive Saturday morning ready for the 7 a.m. start time on our practice course.  The range turns out to be the parking lot of a local manufacturer in Fayetteville who kindly allows the training center to conduct its riding course work on site. 

We wonder why the married couple had not shown up, and we learn they had chosen to take the riding portion of the class in Fort Smith.  As the day wore on, though, our group gets even smaller as two students drop out for various reasons.  It would be a challenging day.


Motorcycle_safety_course_026_2Mike introduces Trey, another instructor, who will help us on the course.  We start off by retrieving the demo bikes we would ride from where they are stored nearby.  Pushing a 400-pound bike a few blocks will teach you why you never want to run out of gas.  Before we can get on the bike, Mike ensures we are all properly outfitted in helmets and gloves (loaners are available), long pants, long-sleeved shirts or jackets, and rubber-soled boots.


The first time I sat down on my black Honda Rebel, I feel the adrenaline running through my body to the point of my fingers tingling.  Of course whether that was nerves or excitement, I’m not sure.  Probably a little of both.  What would this be like?  Could I do it?  Would I like it?  Honestly, I wasn’t sure of the answers, but I was determined to find out.  Learning to ride a motorcycle is like any sport where you have to become proficient in the basic skills if you want to play.  While you often ride with others, clearly motorcycling is an individual experience that challenges the rider to master the machine every time the engine starts.  I remember the first time I learned to snow ski, it took the better part of the first day before I could come down a run without falling.  I hoped riding might be a bit easier, certainly without the falling part.

Motorcycle_safety_course_013 We took baby steps for the first hour or two, power walking our bike from one end of the parking lot to the other while sitting down, learning the all-important “friction zone” where the clutch begins to engage the rear wheel and the bike is powered forward (this is just like using a clutch when you’re driving a stick shift).  We move on to actual riding where we go through the simpler skills such as riding in a straight line, stopping, turning right, turning left and weaving.  Those who need extra help get more reps on the range, which ensures everyone is ready to move on to the next skill.


At this point, we take a short water break and as we are gathered around the bikes visiting, one of our classmates, an older gentleman who was getting quite a bit of extra help on the last few exercises, walks over with his helmet and gloves off to shake hands with everyone.  He is leaving the class.  We are sorry to see him go, but as he explains his difficulty in getting the hang of it, he says with a smile “It’s okay.  That’s why I took the class, so I would know I shouldn’t be doing this out on the open road.”  No kidding.  We are all a little more sober at the thought of any of us on the road at this point.  As the old saying goes, the more you know, the more you know you don’t know.


About this time, my family arrives to watch me in action: my husband, our kids and my father-in-law, who is an avid rider and often takes our son on the back of his bike when my husband and I ride.  They hang out on the edge of the course for a front-row seat, and they have arrived just in time to see our attempts at some more complex riding.


Our next round of exercises gets a little harder.  We are now working on accuracy, balance and using the friction zone to control speed.  A combination of assignments also challenges us to concentrate on combining a variety of actions either in the proper sequence or simultaneously.  For instance, driving out of the first gate, shifting from second to third, turning a corner properly, slowing by downshifting, then coming to a complete stop using both the front and back brakes.  This is a series of actions we would use on virtually every ride we might make.  Yet it’s not as easy as it seems.

Motorcycle_safety_course_006 Several of our group take some extra reps on things like cornering, trying to master the “slow, look, press and roll” sequence of actions to get through turns comfortably.  It’s more of a challenge to the mind than the body to learn how to lean the bike into a corner by counter-steering (pushing your arm FORWARD on the side you want to go rather than turning the handlebars).  A few students talk afterwards about the difficulty of making a right-hard turn.  Mike tells us the story of the woman he knew who never could learn that particular skill and planned all her trips making only left-hand turns.  “Not a great way to ride,” he says with a chuckle.  But there’s a lot more at stake in getting this one down.  Right-hand turns have a much smaller radius than left-hand turns.  If you mess up going left, you could end up in a ditch on the opposite side of the road.  If you mess up turning right, you could hit a car head on.

One of the exercises I enjoy a lot tests slow-riding skills, where the goal is to ride as slowly as possible in first gear without putting your foot down or going outside the boundaries.  This is a test of your balance, your turning ability and how well you can stay in the friction zone at a crawling, steady speed.  We do straight lines, S-curves, weaving and “the box,” which is turning figure 8s inside a small rectangular space – that gets even smaller as the exercise progresses.  Mike tells us there are slow-riding contests at many bike rallies.  I liken this talent to putting in golf, where the best short-game players have both nerves of steel and the right touch.  You need both to do slow riding well, and I feel pretty confident about my potential in this area.

 

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Mastering the Motorcycle Safety Training Course -- hitting the books

Motorcycle_safety_course_002 While I can think of lots of other places to be on a Friday night, I find myself at 5 p.m. after a busy week at work climbing the stairs of a local motorcycle dealership to find a meeting room for the evening.  I hear the voice of the instructor welcoming everyone, and I quietly slip into the back of the room where 13 other would-be motorcycle riders have already found seats.  We have all signed up for the Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s Beginning Rider Course, and our goal was to cram as much knowledge about the fundamentals of safe riding into our heads as possible before the night was through.  Tonight is our required 5-1/2 hour classroom work while Saturday would be an all-day, hands-on driving experience on “the range” (a closed driving course at a local manufacturer’s parking lot). 

Heartland Honda has allowed us to meet at their beautiful store in Springdale, where dozens of beautiful bikes are on display.  I am sure it is no accident we have to walk through the showroom to get to our meeting room.  Jim Meyers, one of the training organizers, greets us with an overview of the class and what our learning goals were for the evening.  We take turns introducing ourselves, which was helpful to learn why people were there – what brought each person to the class, had they already been riding, did they own a bike and just wanted to fine tune some skills?  Or were they like me and had ridden on the back of the bike but never had the handlebars put in my hands? 

My fellow classmates include a pastor, a married couple, an older gentleman who had ridden many years ago but not since, one man who identified himself as a “middle age schizo” who wants to learn to ride, several men ranging in age from probably early 30s to at least 65 or so who say they have always wanted to ride and had begged their wives for years to do so.  Their attendance in the class was part of the deal that had been struck at home before they could begin the motorcycle phase of their life they had been dreaming of. 

There are four other ladies in the class in addition to myself and the wife, and as I was soon to find out, they all had bikes and in fact several were experienced riders.  One was a newspaper reporter, two others were process servers and one was a former postal carrier now working in the healthcare field.

Clearly motorcycle riding attracts people from all walks of life, and the variety of attendees reminded me you cannot stereotype riders.  While we are all very different from one another, we share an intense interest in boMotorcycle_safety_course_019_2th the machine and the sport as well as a longing to be able to comfortably and confidently riding a bike wherever we wanted to go.

Jim turns the class over to the evening’s leader, Mike Turner, an experienced rider who has spent a lifetime on bikes with the stories to prove it.  An upbeat instructor, Mike is a great teacher who keeps the evening moving along through the learner’s workbook by mixing in numerous “you-won’t-believe-this-but” stories detailing harrowing escapes from certain disaster. 

A few examples:

-- The time he narrowly avoided crashing head on into the front of a Greyhound bus going around the curves of Lake Tahoe.  The bus was cheating a corner by riding over in Mike’s lane instead of his own.  To avoid “becoming a grease spot” on the front of the bus, Mike had to turn his bike quickly onto the gravel shoulder where he didn’t come to a rest until 200 feet later. 

-- The time he was riding through Death Valley at night and came across a group of burros standing in the middle of the unlit highway.  Fortunately, Mike’s swerving skills were more instinctual than anything else, and he successfully threaded the herd without incident.

-- The time he rode through thick, freezing fog from Bakersfield to Sacramento, never so cold in his life and barely able to see the road in front of him.

-- The time he learned to control high speed wobble (read violent shaking of the handlebars) on a bike by standing up and leaning forward over the top of the handlebars to put more weight on the front wheel (that is, if your shaking legs would even hold you up at this point in such a horrifying experience.).

A Vietnam vet who is also the president of a motorcycle ministry, Mike has seen quite a bit of life and met many interesting people along the way.  His work as a paramedic for many years has also put him on the front lines of the aftermath of many motorcycle accidents and deaths.  These experiences plus his own years on a bike clearly have made an impression on him and he is passionate – insistent – about the importance of riding safely.  Such wisdom makes for great teaching.  I am certain everyone one of us will walk out of the class that night with a greater awareness for the risks of riding as well as a deeper understanding of how to plan for and avoid those risks. 

Whether we would put that knowledge into practice would be up to us.  Saturday’s work on the range would be our first test of that.

Mike mixes his stories and his teaching material throughout the evening with a number of short professionally done instructional videos that illustrate different driving environments and situations.  These really give you a sense of what you will see from the rider’s point of view and how to avoid a lot of dangers.  The class is treated to pizza and a short break before moving on to finish the lessons.

Before we leave, we take a multiple choice test over the workbook materials and the videos.  I miss only one question -- about what to do when coming into a curve.  We are dismissed with instructions of what to wear and where to show up tomorrow morning at 7 a.m. to start the driving portion of the class. 

Better get some sleep tonight.

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She's going to kill herself

My office staff all walked in this afternoon with a look on their face.  Half joking, half not, they said "Please don't kill yourself."  They've been hearing about my riding class all week and I'm sure have wondered to each other whether or not this was such a good idea.  It's probably fair to say I am not the slowest driver on the road in my car.  So wouldn't the same hold true on a bike?

     "Just tell me where you'll be doing your riding practice this weekend so I can be sure to be someplace else," said one of them.  Thanks for the vote of confidence.  I had to talk them all off the ledge for a good 10 minutes or so about what I have already learned about safey from my homework.  I told them about SEE -- search, evaluate and execute, the MSF "safety strategy."  Hmmmm, they said.  Sounds good. 

     Guess I've got my work cut out for me to prove to them -- and myself -- that I know safety is the first priority on a bike. 

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Classroom prep

I didn’t get into it my last post, but there are plenty of other reasons to learn to ride, such as the pure joy of driving, the sights and smells of the open road, even the physics of the sport like understanding the angles of curves or the science behind counter-steering.  How does that really work to turn the wheel AWAY from the direction you want to go? 

     I am sure I will find out a lot of that tonight in the classroom part of the course.  We meet right after work at a local motorcycle dealership for what looks to be an entire evening of the intellectual side of riding.  I have studied my 54-page handbook and took the test in the back.  As I thought it might be, on closer study of the sport you realize this is a pretty involved thing.  The materials are fairly detailed and enough to scare off those who might think they can just hop a bike and ride if you show them how to turn a bike on.  Great way to end up in the ER with a broken something.

     The risks involved in riding are many and should not be taken lightly.  I have underlined a lot of sections in the handbook about risk, preparation, caution, advanced planning. 

     I am determined to put my fantasies about the thrill of riding aside tonight and focus on the mechanics of it all. 

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Learning to ride

I’m Banfords_family_048going to learn to ride my own bike.  After 20 years of marriage, I admit it is a bit tough to think of creative and exciting things to give to one another.  But my husband outdid himself on this one.  He was almost giddy when he told me, after all the other Christmas presents had been opened, that I was really going to love what he had gotten for me. 

     And he was right – at least I think so.  The Basic Rider Course is this weekend.  I hope I love it as much as I do riding on the back of his bike, which I have been doing for a year now.  “You were meant to ride,” he has told me several times since as I have checked the calendar to see if I had some open time to take the weekend-long class.  “You’re going to love it.”  Why, I’m not exactly sure.  But I am sure there are a few universal reasons people latch on to this incredibly popular sport and ride like the wind whenever they can.

     The first thing that comes to my mind is speed.  Not kill-yourself type of speed, but just the sensation of having nothing between you and the elements as you move along down the road.  I imagine it to be a little like water-skiing, snow-skiing or even snowmobiling, if you have ever engaged in those sports.  I fell in love with all three the first time I learned and became addicted to that feeling of flying.  When I was a kid, I used to think the greatest thing would be if man could fly, and wondering if they were ever going to invent those packs you strap on your back that let you fly around like in the sci-fi movies.

     The other obvious reason to ride is control.  How does it feel to have all that power in your hands, to make the decisions about how to take the turn or just simply starting the thing up under your command?  As the passenger, I wouldn’t know, but I imagine it’s pretty great.  Like anything in life, there is a thrill that comes from being in charge, of successfully maneuvering obstacles, of making something powerful work for you.  This time it happens to be a two-wheeled, 400-pound, 100-plus horsepower, sleek driving machine. 

     Better learn how to control that.

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Last Crop

Labor_day_ozarks_ride_009

I’ve always thought Labor Day was misnamed.  The last thing I want to do that time of year is celebrate my labor.  I’m tired by early September – and the heat just makes things worse.  So this Labor Day Weekend, leaving our toils behind, we set out for an all-day trip to nowhere.  As long as we made it back for the Razorback football game that night, I was good. 

We met up with my husband’s father, another good friend and another couple just as the sun was  coming up, determined to get going before the heat might force us off the road.  Our self-appointed navigator is a born-and-raised Northwest Arkansan, so we fell in line behind his Harley and started out from Fayetteville.

The general idea was a trip through Newton County to do some highways quite popular among Labor_day_ozarks_ride_056cyclists. Highway 7 and Highway 123 were our destination.  The first hour or two of our ride took us through small towns, some beautiful rural areas with tree-covered hillsides, sprawling farms and tiny churches with interesting signs like “We use duct tape to fix everything.  God used nails.”  A quick biscuit and a fill-up in Huntsville got us on our way. 

By mid-morning, we decided to stop at a bend in the road called Fallsville.  The small gravel lot had a lone white building with a single glass door, and three old-timey gas pumps.  No credit card swiping here.  You’re gonna have to go in, which was our intention anyway.  We needed a stretch. 

We discovered the only available bathroom didn’t require a key – outhouses apparently don’t need that much protection.

Labor_day_ozarks_ride_021 As we laughed about this, I noticed an old pick-up truck sitting under a tree.  An overall-clad gentleman was perched on the edge of the passenger’s seat with the door standing open.  Sprawling around the truck were piles of plump green-striped watermelons.  I didn’t need a cutting to know they’d been picked at the height of their juicy glory.  I decided to wander over.

Gentleman Gene, as I think of him now, broke into a smile at the prospect of a buyer approaching.  “How’s business,” I said, curious if he had – or if he really expected – to sell any melons that day.  “They’re beauties, and better than anything you’ve ever put in your mouth.”  No doubt a convincing argument to anyone other than a motorcyclist.  “You raise pretty melons,” I told him. 

He got up out of his seat and leaned on the side of the truck.  The entire bed of the truck was filled with dozens more. “I’m just trying to get whatever I can for them today,” he went on.  “They’re not Labor_day_ozarks_ride_024 mine, they’re my neighbor’s.”

As I was to learn, Gene was a proud farmer himself who just couldn’t stand the thought of letting perfectly good watermelons rot in the field.  That morning he had driven over to his neighbor’s house and convinced him to let him load up his truck and come down to the gas station to try to find a home for as many as possible.

Why wouldn’t your neighbor bring them himself, I asked him.  Seemed like a strange thing to do, loading up your neighbor’s bounty and hauling it off.  Was his neighbor lazy, tired of eating melons, tired of giving them away?  His answer caught me off guard.  “He’s just not up to it this year.  He’s got cancer pretty bad.  He’ll never make another harvest.  This is his last crop.”

A new appreciation for the melons flooded over me, and their natural beauty just shone.  Gorgeous shades of green, smooth round skin, plump centers.  Just the way they were at rest on top of each other looked as if someone had carefully placed each one in a certain spot to catch the morning’s light through the trees.

Gentleman Gene went on to tell me about his neighbor.  An interesting guy who had lived off the land his whole life.  A farmer, he reaped what he sowed and scraped together enough along the way to feed and clothe 14 children.  An experienced chef after a fashion, he had taught all the women in the area to make homemade sorghum molasses, Gene grinned.  “I think the most he ever made in a year was $1,200.  Some of it from his melons.”

No doubt.

Labor_day_ozarks_ride_007 Our conversation was interrupted by the sound of a motorcycle engine starting up.  I looked past him to our group.  They were putting helmets back on and folding up maps.  Time to get going again.

I thanked Gene for his story and apologized again for not being able to take anything with me.  They don’t make saddle bags big enough for melons, I explained.  “But I want you to do something for me," I said.  "Tell your neighbor someone thought his melons were beautiful, and that he does good work."

Gene laughed.  That will make him smile, he said, "and I haven’t seen him smile in a long time.” 

As we rode away, I thought about fall, but not with the welcome anticipation I’d felt that morning.  Harvest is a time of plenty but it’s also a time of endings.  Maybe it’s because I’m in my 40s now, but only recently have I begun to think about things winding down in life.  I’ve always been wound up.  But of course there is a time of harvest that comes for us all.  The real question is what are you harvesting?

Gentleman Gene had done his neighbor a favor, but he’d done one for me too. It may be a last crop, but it won’t be one that’s forgotten.

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Falling for the Ozarks

Birthday_ride_to_devils_den_044 There’s something entrancing about the dance of the leaves of fall, especially if you are lucky enough to live someplace where fall is an actual season and not a weekend event. 

Fall in the Boston Mountains of Northwest Arkansas comes just when you can’t take one more day of 90-plus heat and humidity, when your car AC can’t work hard enough, and when you start to think there might be something to global warming after all.

Then, mercifully, one September morning there is a cool mist that settles on the fields, a noticeable chill in the air at night, and a wind that comes up along the hillside whistling gentle songs in the back of your consciousness.

The magic of the leaves starts with color.  Right at the tops of the branches, green slowly gives way to scarlet, vibrant orange, or vivid yellow.  Over the course of a few weeks, you can almost track the earth’s tilting by the way the colors migrate from some of the grander maples around town, down through their branches and along the roadside to smaller trees of all kinds.  Different colors for different trees, but very few are left unpainted by late October.

As grand as color is, it’s the way fallen leaves dance that entrances me most.  Flying down the   back roads and highways on our bike of choice (BMW K1200 RS), it’s as if they rise up to meet us even before our tailwind catches them.  An unseen wind seems to appreciate our mutual search for speed and adventure, racing toward us across a field and swirling up a tumbling wave of painted leaves just as we cross its path. 

Labor_day_ozarks_ride_037 I am mesmerized by their movement. 

So it is not surprising that my husband and I found ourselves many a night this fall with maps spread out across the kitchen table plotting weekend rides.  We couldn’t stay away from the lure of the leaves. 

Apparently we were not the only ones who couldn’t kick the habit.  As I learn more about motorcycling, I have discovered that I live in one of the most beautiful places in the central

United States for riding.  During our many escapes this past fall, we met riders from Texas, Kansas, Louisiana, Tennessee, Oklahoma and Missouri and I’m sure many other places I never asked about.  Labor_day_ozarks_ride_042

All had come for a quick weekend Arkansas riding fix – to maneuver the hairpins of the Pig Trail, or follow the crooked highways of Newton County, to stop in Eureka Springs or
Hot Springs for a meal or a massage, to get to the top of Mount Magazine or the bottom of the Buffalo River waterways.  Where you ride doesn’t really matter.  It’s that you get to ride that counts.   

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Arrival in the Alps

Prologue: Forget that we had been planning for this trip since January. Six months later, as my husband and I stand in line to board the flight from Dallas to Zurich, I'm still struggling to unplug from my life for a while -- I lob in one last call to the office.

Perhaps you have the same feeling right before you leave on vacation -- is it really worth it to go?  The answer is always a resounding yes, of course, but it takes unplugging before you are sure.  And this trip could not have come at a better time for us.

Many people have asked me about this vacation: How did we decide to take a motorcycle trip through the Alps?  From the beginning, I should confess that I am a destination person, much more interested in finally getting somewhere rather than experiencing the journey itself. So a nine-day trip to Europe -- with most of that time spent on the back of a motorcycle riding through the mountains -- was a bit out of character for me. Shouldn't we be seeing famous cities, museums or monuments, collecting passport stamps? I should be taking a cooking class at some Italian culinary academy by day and European art classes by night. But this trip was the right idea for us: I wanted to go back to Europe, and my husband wanted to do something with motorcycles, which he truly loves.

So with Raye an experienced rider but me never having so much as ridden with him to the corner market, we decided to book a biker's dream trip through the Alps.  We agree to rent just one bike, and of course Raye will drive.  I have signed on for a true back-of-the-bike experience, determined to find out if I can learn to like motorcycle riding and, most importantly, to see if I can make the journey matter.

I hope you enjoy this travelogue.  Indeed this trip taught me a lot.  Please feel free to post comments, share your reflections on the joys of motorcycle riding, traveling in Europe, or simply what your own travels -- wherever they may be -- have taught you.

Friday/Saturday

We arrive in Zurich after a 10-hour overnight flight from Dallas. We did score an exit  row, however, which helped immensely. I only worked a few hours on my laptop, and the rest of the time dozed leaning on Raye’s shoulder listening to my iPod.  It is hard to sleep with the anticipation of the trip ahead.

Once arriving at the Zurich airport early Saturday morning, we catch a local train to the Zurich Hauptbahnhof (main train station). We only have about 90 minutes to wait for our train to Innsbruck,
but in that time we simply sit on top of our luggage and watch people scurry by.
Saturday morning must be a busy travel time -- or at least it appears so -- as we watch couples, families, school or children's groups and young men dressed in military uniforms moving all around us. At least they seem to know where to go, which is more than I can really say for us. We are a little bit turned around but find some young women who speak English. They point us to the correct train platform. Our train arrives remarkably on time, and we board with no problems, finding the first class coach easily -- it is simply marked with a big "1" on the side of the car. Locating our seats, we gratefully sink into them for the four-hour trip.

The train takes us alongside a beautiful lake outside of Zurich and then on through the Swiss and Austrian countryside. At every turn, Raye and I are just stunned with the beautiful scenery. The lake is gorgeous, glacier fed and glassy. The mountains are soaring and covered with lush trees and shrubs. Very jagged and steep. It’s not even like the Rockies because these mountains are so green and soft looking. It reminds you exactly of the opening scene from the "Sound of Music."

We meet and visit with two college girls from Georgia who are headed to a six-week program at the university in Innsbruck. I helped them with several questions and thought of our intern, Luci, who is on a similar program in Florence this summer. Raye helped them unload their giant rolling duffel bags. After hitting the ATM together for Euros, we wave good-bye. They were very excited about their adventure.


Our hotel is just across the street, as it turns out. Traditional European style with wood paneling covering the walls and ceiling. I love hotels, having worked in the lodging industry for many years. First-class facilities and attentive service. The employees wear traditional Austrian attire and speak excellent English. We have an expansive view of the mountains outside our hotel window. The whole city sits in the heart of the mountains, and everywhere you look they are standing guard over the area. Must be why the Olympics were held here. I am hearing German spoken everywhere, and some of it is coming back to me. Raye can’t believe it since he thought I was barely able to translate “Hogan’s Heroes.” It will be interesting this week to see how much I really remember.

In order to stay awake this afternoon (and hopefully acclimate to the correct local time), we walked through Old Innsbruck and ate lunch at a café outside a hotel that was built in the 1500s. Wow. Lots of people wandering around looking at everything. It must be a real tourist city. After a
short nap (we hadn’t slept since Thursday night remember), we have dinner on a terrace of the Weisses Rossl (white horse) restaurant. It is a gorgeous evening and it stays light even nearly until 10 p.m. We enjoy traditional Austrian fare – glazed pork with dumplings and green beans, and a beef and potato hash with cabbage and bacon salad. Then homemade apple strudel and coffee for dessert. We talk about the adventures ahead.

A short stroll back to the hotel and we collapse into bed by at least 11p.m. Current time at home: 4 in the afternoon.

Sunday mid-day
We slept 11 hours last night and this morning walked across the street for cappuccino and a brie sandwich for breakfast. The weather is about 70 degrees and sunny. It is just a slice of heaven here. Our biggest concern right now is hooking up with our tour company to get to the base hotel, which is in a small town outside of Innsbruck. The tour company is supposed to pick us up here. Since we are across the street from the train station, if our wires get crossed, we are simply going to catch a train to the closest town and figure it out from there. Headed for the shower now.

Sunday evening
We did make our pick up with no problems. Frank, a friendly outdoorsy kind of young man, quickly loaded our bags into a van and took off flying down the autobahn to our new hotel in a small town in  the Alps. As it turns out, Frank is our tour guide and host for the week. He and Raye hit it off from the beginning as most avid cyclists do. 

We met several other couples on the ride up; all are friendly and conversational. They are from different parts of the United States including Georgia, Wisconsin and Washington -- and we also have one fellow from Germany.

A first look at our bikes was a thrill for the guys. Not being a big motorcycle fan at this point, all I can tell you is our bike is red and big. Its engine just hums, according to Raye, and it’s very powerful. I find out that we are driving a BMW 1200 RT and determine to commit that to memory in case I am ever asked.

We eat in the hotel dining room from a buffet of traditional Austrian meats served directly from the chef’s kitchen.  Then we convene to a cozy meeting room with a window looking out over the Alps by twilight.  I struggle to stay focused on the conversation led by Frank, which is a review of the map and road rules for the week. Conversation on the back deck of the hotel and a walk through nearby trails ended our first night. What a beautiful place this is.

I hope I like riding on the back of the bike. I came a long way to find out about something my husband loves.

(Want to see more photos?  Go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/13059701@N00/sets/ and click on the set "Innsbruck -- Arrival Day" to see highlights of this beautiful Winter Olympics city.  You will also find my favorite photos put together in one set.  I recommend you view each day's photos by clicking first on the set you want to view, then click on the words "view slide show" in the upper right hand corner of the screen.  At any time you can find out more about each shot by simply clicking on the photo itself.)

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Monday: All the Kings' Castles

Breakfast early this morning consisted of a buffet of sausages, meats, cheeses, breads coffee and cereal. Hearty Austrian food, I think. It nearly held us through until dinner. We left right at 8:30 a.m. with beautiful sunny weather, and a few wispy clouds, which seem to hang right at the tops of the mountains.

Our route took us into Deutschland – Germany – to see the famous King Ludwig’s two castles, Linderhoff and Neuschwanstein. The drive to the castles took all morning, and we cruised through many picturesque, small villages mostly farming communities. It must be harvest time for hay because everywhere farmers were on tractors mowing tall fields of grass and flowers. We also saw many people using scythes, cutting hay by hand with long, thin curved bladed instruments.  These hand reapers were mostly seen on narrow, steep hillsides where obviously tractors could not function without tipping over.  Some people we saw had even tied themselves to trees to keep themselves from falling down the mountainside while they worked.  Bales were rolled and piled sporadically across the fields at the bottom of the hills. As we came to learn, farmers here wrap their hay to make it ferment. Apparently cattle love it, and our riding companions from farm country in Wisconsin loved speculating about this.

The architecture in the Austrian alps is consistently simple and beautiful. Most buildings are white or a pale color stucco with pale shutters and gingerbread trim around the roofline. Balconies and windows
are filled with flower pots -- pink and red flowers always spilling over the edges of pots. House after house looks like this, even most buildings in small towns. We wonder if there is a strict building code that enforces this, or people here just have great taste and understand the concept of a cohesive design style for a community, and the graceful impact of well placed flowers. Many buildings also have painted murals and trim around the windows. Against the near neutral stucco, these designs -- as well as the flowers and windows themselves -- stand out like artwork on a wall. Nearly every scene could be on a postcard.

I am enjoying getting my German back. I took six years of it in high school and college, and lived in southern Germany for a summer as a foreign exchange student. I have worked up the nerve to order in German once and pay a gas bill at a convenience store using my German. So far, no missteps, but then I could be short a couple Euros in my pocket and I probably wouldn’t know it.

In addition to settling back into the language, I am also remembering how it felt to immerse myself in another culture. You have a strong sense of both anonymity and freedom when you do this. No one knows you here, so you can just relax and be yourself. No need to organize people or talk about your life. Just enjoy stepping into someone else’s daily life and be a casual observer or minor participant. The world is a big place, and it takes getting out of your cultural box to remember how small a role you really do play on this big stage.

The king's castles were ornate and dramatic. As we neared Neuschwanstein on our bikes, I could see the castle hanging on the side of one of the mountains in all its glory. I had seen pictures of this castle since my high school German class days and had always dreamed of seeing it in person. It did not disappoint. We actually toured the smaller castle, Linderhoff, due to the hours of wait and tour time it takes to go through Neuschwanstein. The building was full of extravagances of every kind, including tapestries that took women years to make because of the finery of the stitching. Gold-plated furniture, mirrored halls, tables that were lowered up and down through floors carrying food to the king, even a throne room.


But the grounds were even more beautiful in my opinion. Gardens were filled with statuary, pots, fountains and manicured flower beds and lawns.

Really, this king was over the top in all he did. A loner who let few if any to come into these magnificent buildings. He died young and by himself. Many of us wondered how his subjects felt when they finally got to see his estates after his death. Apparently they came in droves. Think of all the good he could have done with his wealth had he been less ego-centric. Yet the irony is even today people still flock to see the monuments he built, and we thoroughly enjoyed viewing the extravagance.

iPod playlist: Phil Collins, Neil Young, Dave Brubeck, Diana Krall

(Want to see more photos?  Go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/13059701@N00/sets/  and click on the set "Monday: All the kings' castles" to see highlights of the ornate buildings and grounds.)

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Tuesday: Switchbacks and Lakes

Today was a rider's day.  Our main focus was on experiencing one entire mountain pass of nearly 50 consecutive switchbacks.  It sounded daunting to all of us, but really I think the drivers in our party were absoutely beside themselves with the challenge.  I wasn't so sure how it would feel to ride on the back of the bike with absolutely no say-so in the speed or arc chosen for all those turns.  But I was set on putting it all in Raye's capable hands and focusing instead on the thrill of the ride ahead. The switchbacks were carved into the Austrian Alps, the most beautiful mountain passes I have ever seen. As you look up the mountain, the road looks like a pile of ribbons, looping gracefully back and forth all the way to the top.  Raye maneuvered us carefully up through the turns without a hitch.  This was breathtaking and thrilling all at the same time since the sides of the road simply stop at the edges of the mountain.  Not much to catch you should you misjudge things too significantly.  We stopped at the peak near a dam holding back a beautiful “see” –- a lake -- and enjoyed an espresso and some Austrian chocolate with our riding companions. Moving on, we passed through a quaint town with a chocolate factory, and you could smell the fruits of their labor all throughout the city. Frank took a pretty good ribbing from the ladies who couldn’t imagine not stopping at the chocolate factory gift shop.

Calling on my German more and more, today I successfully translated lunch menus for our table, and I can read many signs in the towns we pass through. Fierwehr – fire protectors, geminde amt – city hall, backeri – bakery, artz – doctor, apotheke – apothecary (pharmacy).

We stopped for lunch and ate sausages from the grill at an outdoor café on a mountainside. The weather has been warm, so we actually take off jackets, zip out the linings and sit outside under some shade to cool down. I never imagined the Alps region would be this warm but it is only like this when you are not sky-high.  At the top of the passes, it is quite cool.  And the mornings are always chilly regardless of where you are.


The ride up the next mountain is also filled with switchbacks and we see some minor incidents on this leg. One time we were riding too close to each other and our bike almost ran into the bike in front of us in the middle of a curve. The rider in front had to stop suddenly because an older man on a bicycle was just a few yards ahead of him but in the center of the road. Usually bicyclists stay to the edge of the road, but this one had wandered too far out. Fortunately no one was hurt, but the bike behind us had its rider slide off the back in the sudden stop. She hopped off but then hopped back on without too much trouble.  Believe me, you're not going very fast in these curves, but the last thing you want to do is misjudge the apex of the curve.

Another time as we were riding down the mountain, we had to stop as a young man coming up the pass had just jumped off his motorcycle, put down the kickstand and jogged back down to the edge of a curve to help his female traveling companion with her bike. The young lady’s bike was off the road and up against the face of the rock wall, a victim of too much speed at just the wrong point on the curve. He helped her pull the bike back down to the road, and we slowly passed by them as he waved to assure us everything was under control and he did not need assistance.

We also find that, to move along in a timely manner, we have to pass slow-moving cars on these passes even when you cannot really see much ahead of you. This is always an interesting experience. Raye is very careful, but since I have no idea how fast the bike will go when we really need it, I just don’t watch at these moments. One of our fellow riders says his philosophy is that double yellow lines are just "suggested no-passing zones" as far as motorcyclists are concerned since we can
move at a much higher rate of speed much more quickly than a car can.  Raye comments that on occasion the bike we are on sputters a bit when he turns up the juice. But otherwise I think it has been great fun to drive.

Dinner is always served at 7:30 p.m. in the dining room of the restaurant where we are staying. The cream of carrot soup and wienerschnitzel were sumptuous this evening. Raye and I have taken to the fresh salad bar and the cheese buffet afterwards – Austrian cheese is better than desserts.

iPod playlist: Steely Dan, Boston and Van Morrison

(Want to see more photos?  Go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/13059701@N00/sets/  and click on the set "Tuesday: Switchbacks and Lakes " to see highlights of the hairpin turns and immense peaks.)

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Wednesday: St. Moritz

Today was our long awaited excursion to St. Moritz in Switzerland. We chose to make our way there via the Italian Alps.  After a hearty breakfast, we gather in the hotel parking lot overlooking the mountains and everyone climbs on board their bike.

As I soon discover on this trip, the mornings are my favorite part of the day.  The air is cool and crisp, the mist is still hanging in the mountains, and the sun is shining.  There is nothing like the moment you slide onto the back of the bike.  The anticipation of the day -- what you may see in this incredibly beautiful countryside, the inspiration you know you are going to feel from just being in this moment.  Holding onto Raye, racing past life, the rush of the bike’s power, feeling the wind blowing by -- it is hard to describe, but I can tell you it is an intoxicating feeling.  The experience made me feel like I can do anything.  That somehow there is still much of life to discover, something still amazing left for me to do and I can’t wait to get there.

Our first stop is an interesting site.  On the edge of the Italian/Austrian border is a lake that flooded a valley years ago.  You can still see the church steeple coming up through the water where the town stood.  Very reminiscent of the last scene in the movie "Oh Brother Where Art Thou."

Out in the flats between passes, we come across two gigantic windmills positioned just beside the lake -- this is such a windy spot and hydro-electric power and wind power are the two alternative Alps_day_three_020sources of energy in this area.  I think about one of my clients in the oil and gas industry that is working to be a part of the energy solution in America by developing a new natural gas find in Arkansas.  Alternative fuel sources are great long-term ideas but not practical for all of us who love to sap up as much energy as we can to move at high rates of speed in our lives.  I don’t know many people, really, who would give up easy access to energy -- even at today’s prices.  But a lot of the world’s problems wouldn’t exist if more people did have the affordable energy sources they needed.

We drive through an old town that has cobblestone streets and many old buildings.  Children holler "hallo" to us and wave as we go by.  Motorcyclists seem to be a common and welcome site through these communities.  In fact, we pass many other motorcycle groups throughout this trip. I’ve learned the biker’s greeting -- simply drop your hand out off the side of your leg in a very nonchalant wave.  I knew of this gesture in the states, but I didn’t realize it was a sign of camaraderie that is universal.

Heading into the mountain passes, we encounter more switchbacks -- kehren (turns) -- that are numbered and also show the meter height.  We are about 2,500 meters high, which is the equivalent of 7,500 feet or so.  Nearly as high as Vail Pass I think.  But I don’t feel the effects of the altitute, probably because our base hotel is also in the Alps.

Our guide leads us through an interesting engineering creation found throughout the mountains of Europe.  They are open tunnels on one side called "galleries."  As you ride through the tunnel, you can see out one side and down into the valley below.  There are a lot of these, and it’s fun to look out while you ride through them.  Frank tells us these are built to catch snowfall and prevent avalanches that close roads.  Passage through these areas is critical, and you can’t have major roads shut down for months at a time from snowfall.

We stop to eat lunch just on the other side of the Swiss Alps at a small "gasthaus" guest house (hotel) that has an outdoor café beside a creek.  This is very common, to round a bend in the road and see a gasthaus standing by the side of the road.  "Zimmer frie mit warmen kuche."  Rooms available with warm cooking.  Then also the name of the family, "Familie Schmitt."  We guess this is a longtime tradition of local families opening their homes to travelers for extra income to supplement whatever they get from their farming enterprises. On evening walks behind the hotel where we are staying, we follow a narrow road up to a hilltop and we pass no fewer than three or four of these small family inns.  In fact, the inn where we are staying is run by the Wilhelm family.

After lunch, Raye and I are tempted by the hammock hanging in the yard -- riding through the Alps is hard on Raye to watch the road and we move around a lot as we speed up, slow down, turn right, turn left.  It’s great fun for me, but Raye watches the road and really concentrates.  Several friends said before we left on this trip: "Be sure to come back in one piece."  As you grow older and have children, you begin to realize the importance of taking only calculated risks.  Those black diamond runs on the ski slope during our winter vacations used to attract our adventurous spirit, but we have come to appreciate the fact that someone has to raise our children -- and we’d like it to be us.  So we don’t take as many chances on our trips like we did when we were in our 20s and invincible.  This trip is no exception.

Once the bills have been paid, our group sets out for dark-looking skies toward St. Moritz.  The ladies are determined to shop there.  We can see it off in the distance set in a stunning valley.  As we pull into town, the evidence of wealth is everywhere -- in the cars, the hotels, the architecture, the shops -- even in the sailing club set beside the beautiful lake that the entire town overlooks.

The ladies are given exactly 30 minutes to power shop, of which 10 minutes are spent climbing the steep hills to get into the middle of the shopping district from where we park our bikes down by the lake.  I am used to working at a fast pace, though, so we make quick work of a gourmet chocolate shop -- gifts for family, friends and clients.  And I manage to grab a fleece jacket for myself with the town’s name stitched on the chest.  We simply window shop the expensive designer establishments manned by well dressed attendants.  Our motorcycle attire hides any sign of money any of us may have, but the way we looked I’m not so sure we would be that welcome anyway.

Just now at 4:30 p.m., we hop the bikes for the two-plus hours back to home base in Austria.  As luck would have it, we encounter not just rain but lightning and hail, which makes an impressive noise when it hits your helmet.  I know Raye and the other drivers are becoming concerned about the slickness of the roads.  They look a little frothy on the edges, which is surely an indication of the rain mixing with the oils and other liquids left standing on the roads since the last rain. 

We stop in a small town under the only available covered spot and don our "frog togs" -- rain suits.  This is no small feat to get these suits unpacked from the saddle bags and then pulled on over leather clothing and motorcycle jackets.  Everything sticks together, but finally everyone is covered the best they can be.  Even still, we are already wet and cold and for the first time I am wishing we were already back at the hotel.  My wet leather gloves stay wet and my hands never warm up the rest of the way back.

No one seems too excited about the rain as we ride through small town after small town.  People have disappeared from the streets for the most part.  Even at the Swiss border we are waved through without so much as a passport check.  After an hour or so and a painfully slow maneuver  through the Innsbruck evening rush hour traffic, the sun breaks through to light up the last leg of the way.  Tired and ready for dinner, our guide doesn’t hesitate to take on the last few miles. We race up the side of our mountain at 130 kph -- at least 70 mph.  Conversation at dinner is quieter than usual as everyone is ready for a good night’s sleep.

iPod playlist: The Moody Blues, The Doobie Brothers, Steve Winwood, Santana, Steppenwolf.

(Want to see more photos?  Go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/13059701@N00/sets/  and click on the set "Wednesday: St. Moritz" to see highlights of the hairpin turns and immense peaks.)

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Thursday: Goats and Old Town Sterzinger

Thursday
Today we are rested and set to go to the Italian Alps and on to see a beautiful old town called Sterzinger. We ride along the misty, cold mountaintops and stop to see long-haired goats at a bend in the road. They seem to have no trouble meandering along the sides of these cliffs, just like you imagine as a child growing up. Are two legs shorter than the others?! I stop to take a series of photographs of these friendly creatures.  They are beautiful, and apparently the focus of a niche agriculture business in Europe, supplying milk for goat cheese and other high end dairy products.  Very expensive, Frank tells us. 

We have coffee at a restaurant precariously propped on the top of a ridge overlooking yet another magnificent valley and series of waterfalls and rushing rivers. The women in the group laugh because we are all so taken with European WC’s (water closets). The bathrooms are small but beautifully decorated, with every marvel known. Automatic deoderizers that mist the air when you walk in, powerful flushing, automatic seat de-germers (that was in the St. Moritz sailing club) that slide the seat around through a grip that has bacterial spray of some kind (hard to imagine it until you see it). Every WC is immaculate. Wish the U.S. would pick up on this trend.

Our late morning drive is through another mountain pass that is covered in hemlock trees – they look like lacy cedars. The air is thick with their fragrance, and you feel as though you are in a scene  from Snow White and the Seven Dwarves. It is peaceful and entrancing, and my music of choice only adds to the escape. My i-Pod has become an important accessory for me on this trip as I am, like most people, carried away by great music.  (See my play list at the end of each day.)  My mind wanders a lot as we ride, and I really have time to examine life and consider possibilities. It is an other-worldly experience.

Raye is a great driver, and I am starting to get used to not having any real assignment in all this experience.  I am just to hang on and take it all in, and then be sure to tell him what I saw since he is mostly watching the road. We see villages laid out up and down the sides of the mountains as well as waterfalls cascading down steep cliffs, barns, trails, pastures, rivers following the fall of the land. One scene after another – you just can’t imagine that things will get any prettier, and then they do.

We pass through a small town called St. Leonardo – it is apparently a resort town I fall in love with. As in many communities, there is a “sportsplatz” – sports field. Soccer, of course. This town also has the first public “swimmbad” – swimming pool – we have seen so far. Not too sunny during July and August, these are actually the rainiest months of the year in the Alps. We have been lucky to enjoy so much sun this week, and I sat out by the pool at our small inn two different occasions.

The buildings in St. Leonardo and many other towns like it are beautifully decorated with metalwork signs or murals painted on the walls. It is interesting to note a common practice that buildings feature tromp l’oiel painted trim around the windows to give the appearance of ornate wood carvings or stucco trim. At first you don’t notice that it is just a painted effect, but once you do it is fun to admire the artist’s abilities to fool the eye. And it becomes just something else to watch for and enjoy.

We see a lot of mothers out walking their children along the sidewalks during our rides. Not sure if I don’t notice this so much in the U.S. anymore since my children are now 9 and 12, but it does reinforce the more laid back atmosphere of this region. I am also surprised to learn from our guide that most shops close from 1-3 p.m. every day. My driven nature just can’t imagine doing this, but the concept grows on me a little. Raye and I have noticed we have both slept about 8 hours a night while on this trip and a number of other things don’t seem to bother us like they do in our hectic American lives.

Just another 30 minutes or so and we come down from the mountains into the town of Sterzinger set in a beautiful valley. We park our bikes in the town square and walk into the old part of town, a  pedestrian-only area of cobblestones with shops situated one after the other. I take dozens of pictures of the shop signs – pieces of art created out of metal and wood with painted letters and pictures to depict the business inside. I liken these images to ephemera – old advertising and labels that many people collect. I also capture a number of carved wooden doorways that are another indication of the craftsman so prevalent in the region.

We walk through a giant tower archway made of stone which is in the center of the old town. It features a large clock that appears to keep accurate time punctuated by the occasional chimes on the quarter hour. Lunch is in an old pub with a huge green tile stove just  inside the front door. A brief sun shower keeps the midday cool but not particularly wet, thank goodness.

We head back through a beautiful valley and another pass with a small number of turns, but mostly it is a leisurely ride with some spotty rain. Before dinner we all gather on the deck overlooking mountain peaks just behind the hotel. We laugh and talk of the sites of the day – everyone loves motorcycling, and the men talk for hours on end about bikes, cars and every kind of racing that exists. They even have a competition, comparing the number of cylinders represented in everyone's garage back home. It is another fantastic day. I sleep like a baby.

iPod playlist: The Guess Who, The Doors, Steve Miller

(Want to see more photos?  Go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/13059701@N00/sets/  and click on the set "Thursday: Goats and Old Town Sterzinger" to see my "goat series" and my "sign series" -- plus take a step back in time into beautiful Sterzinger.  This is my favorite collection of photos.)

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